Locally known as the "five-mile hill" between Kailua-Kona and Captain Cook, Kainaliu is "kinna" hard to spot. Best guess on population is 1,467. Unless, of course, you come through during heavy commute time between Kailua-Kona and the rapidly growing suburbs. The daily traffic jam that sometimes extends for miles down the hill is known as the "Kainaliu Crawl."

But that's a local problem. If you're vacationing, avoid rush hour and come to explore. Check out the galleries, book stores and specialty shops. Eat at a café, see what's playing at the community's vintage theater, wander through the Kona Historical Society Museum or take a ride down Napo'opo'o Road to Kealakekua Bay, probably best known as the site of Captain Cook's death. That happened in 1779 when the British explorer lost standing with Hawaiians who proceeded to take him out. Eventually, British sailors erected a monument to Cook, which can be seen a mile across the bay.

Kainaliu may be a teeny town but it is home to a vintage theater that features a regular performing arts schedule of live theater, music, dance and film. The Aloha Theatre, originally a silent movie establishment, opened in 1932. The Aloha Angel Café, which adjoins the theater, serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner with pastries made on site in the café's bakery. Aloha Theater is the first thing you'll see when driving in from the Kailua-Kona direction.

In a city, Kainaliu, would be considered a neighborhood, one that manages to blend old establishments, like Oshima's Drug Store, built in 1926, with refurbished storefronts that house galleries and boutiques. It's historic ties to Kona Coffee Country remain. And it has retained its folksy, neighborhood appeal.

Eventually, a bypass highway will direct traffic away from little communities like Honalo, Kealakekua and Kainaliu. It's not apparent how the bypass and future development will impact commerce in these communities. But today it's clear that a stop in Kainaliu is a step into the unvarnished heart of life on the Big Island.