The image of Hawaii's fierce warrior king, Kamehameha I, is duplicated in statues and place names throughout the islands. But nowhere is Kamehameha, who in 1810 united the islands, more revered than in the neighboring Kohala hamlets of Hawi and Kapa'au. Here is the birthplace of the man who would become known as Kamehameha the Great. And here is located the more than century-old, original 9-foot statue in his likeness.
Kamehameha's birthplace is west of Hawi near the ruins of Mo'okini Heiau, an immense, football-field sized, sacrificial temple that dates from about 480 A.D. and is considered one of Hawaii's most significant historic sites. The king's birthplace, marked by a plaque, is a few hundred yards away from the heiau.
To get there, watch for mile marker 20 and take the turnoff to 'Upolu Airport, then turn left at the airfield. The heiau is about two miles from the airport. Whether you walk or drive, be aware that the road is in poor condition. If you do hike in, be sure to wear walking shoes and carry water.
On the third Saturday of each month, Leimomi Mookini Lum, whose ancestors helped build the temple, will be on site. He's going to ask visitors to pull some weeds and help keep the heiau tidy. In exchange, he'll share family lore about the ancient temple and its royal beginnings.
In some ways, King Kamehameha's life and death are cloaked in mystery. Portraits of the monarch are hard to find, although two can be seen at the Honolulu Academy of Arts. His birth date is far from clear, estimates ranging between 1740 and 1758. The date on the statue, 1753, has a question mark. His death is recorded as May 8, 1819. His burial site is unknown.
It is said that before Kamehameha was born a priest warned his grandfather, King Alapai, that the unborn child would grow up to become a slayer of chiefs, and thus the priest advised the king to kill his grandchild upon birth. Instead, priests hid the infant in a cave and he was raised in secret by a childless couple.
It is not difficult to find the colorful Kamehameha statue that stands on the grounds of the Kohala Information Center on the main drag (Hwy. 270) in Kapa'au. Cast in Italy in 1879 and erected in the early 1880s, it is the first Kamehameha statue. Originally cast in bronze, the statue was restored in early 2001 and now is painted bright red and yellow to reflect the preference of the community. Other statues can be found on O'ahu, in Hilo and in Washington, D.C.
The drive to Hawi and Kapa'au from the South Kohala resort area is a trip through the historic past of the island. From the resort area, follow Hwy. 19 until it intersects with Hwy. 270, bear left and keep an eye open for another sign directing you to turn right to continue on 270 to Hawi and Kapa'au.
