The North Kohala peninsula, having risen first from the sea, is the oldest section of this still growing island. Eventually, the volcanoes that formed Kohala Mountain became extinct leaving a rugged, windswept terrain that only now is beginning to show signs of modern development. But time has not erased the historic legacy of this region, and it certainly hasn't dimmed its wild beauty.
Ancient temple sites, like Mo'okini Heiau, built in 480 A.D.; a Hawaiian village dating back 600 years at Lapakahi State Historical Park; and the birthplace and original statue of King Kamehameha I are among the graphic reminders of a time when the Hawaiian archipelago was virtually unknown to the Western world.
The Kamehameha statue, which was restored in early 2001, stands on the grounds of the Kohala Information Center on the main drag (Hwy. 270) in Kapa'au. Cast in Italy in 1879 and erected in the early 1880s, it is the original Kamehameha statue. Others can be found on Oahu, in Hilo and in Washington, D.C. Originally cast in bronze, the statue now is painted red and yellow, reflecting the preference of the community.
Highway 270 passes through Hawi and Kapa'au, a pair of upcountry hamlets that cater to tourists in inventive, offbeat ways. Park and take a peek inside the boutiques, galleries, eateries and gift shops that line the main drag in both towns.
The Kohala Book Shop, in Kapa'au, is a find for anyone looking for rare or unusual tomes, and The Bamboo Inn, a restaurant and gallery in Hawi, is an institution that has long drawn visitors to this out-of-the-way destination. High-energy attractions like Big Island Eco Adventures, a new zip line destination, and ATV Outfitters bring thousands of visitors to these upcountry towns.
The drive to the end of the road at Pololu Valley Lookout is spectacular, as is the hike into the valley. Leaving the North Kohala area, consider driving the Kohala Mountain Road along Route 250 to Waimea. This is a picturesque drive through cattle ranches and largely unpopulated countryside.
